Monday, November 3, 2014

The epic war of spices, The final Solution

History never lies. A period of peace is always followed by war and the following paragraphs, as a mark of this impending violence, further ahead, may be accentuated by many commas violating the peace of small and simple sentences.

The people of Andhra loved kara kozhambu. They enjoyed it so much that they decided to ask for the recipe. Now, it is human tendency to balk in the glory of your success for some time; especially when you hold all the aces.
Polite rejection:
“Thambi enga vandhirkeeha?? (where have you come? brother)”
“Naaku recipe kavali ( I want the recipe)”
“No”

The actual exchange:
“Thambi enga vandhirkeeha?? ( where have you come?)”
“Naaku recipe kavali ( I want the recipe)”
“For what?”
"Kara korambu"
"What?"
"Kara kolambu?"
"Haha what?"
"Kara kodambu"
"Hahaha Pronounce it correctly and we will see"
"Kara kombu (hot horn, in tamil)"
"You can go ask angry cows for that"
*storms off*

The Telugu vadus(people) found the '' (zha) of the tamil horribly difficult to pronounce. Even though, a lot of native Tamil speakers didn’t pronounce it correctly, the tamil took great pleasure in making fun of the telugu folk. This derision was so rampant that the guests were becoming a bit uncomfortable with the hospitality. Added to that, they were also fast becoming the butt of xenophobic jokes; the laughing stock(of kara kozhambu), if you may.

One starry night, in an open bar, as in, one without a roof, at the edge of madras, 'unknown' by the name Ennore, a portmanteau of enna and ooru (what + place),a gruff, drunk voice broke out amid the general buzz of gibberish.

“Let us show them kuzka’s mutton” roared ABCD Raju. By now, people with two initials in Andhra had begotten kids with three initials and ABC Dharma Raju decided to add a fourth one by shortening his name for good fortune.
“Is it kulka?” inquired his diminutive friend, afraid of the lampooning that might follow later
“No Kuzka, Kuska I think… Eh whatever, let us show them that ra…” Raju retorted.

Confusion followed conniption which was further followed by commotion. It is believed that, following the war cry, all hell broke loose and Raju, in the middle of the resulting melee, vowed just deserts for all the repression and ridiculing. People still talk about the crazy eyes of ABCD Raju on that night. This particular expression can still be found on the expressive faces of the villain characters of telugu and tamil cinema. On that day though, ABCD Raju, who had powerful, in fact very powerful, political friends, went back to plot his revenge.

One note: no more, no less: No one knows what Mr Raju meant by kuska, he was pretty drunk on that day. Later though, this kuska became widely used to refer to chicken biryani without chicken, mutton biryani without mutton or vegetable biryani without vegetables, a total waste, reminding one of the ‘total waste’- ness of the uproar that day.

The small outrage in a nameless place, north of madras, had suddenly rekindled the rage that had been dormant all this time. People bayed for blood in the streets. The fight threatened the whole of south India. The sleeper cells of the weapons divisions, disbanded a decade ago were woken up for what would be later be referred to the Machilipatnam project (1975). A project whose aim was to settle the spice war once and for all.

The 'solution' was called 'TsarGonkura' or Emperor Gonkura(This is now deployed in a controlled environment for civil consumption as Gonkura pachadi). Originally developed in the labs under highly secure surveillance with great care, this project was a first of its kind. The raw materials were procured from various parts of Andhra with the best of available quality. In a rare show of intelligence, they were transported in public vehicles like busses, to avoid detection by spies. Some of these busses, in state of derelict disrepair are still running today reminding the few who know, of its glorious past.


The Tsar Gonkura had a three stage core. A sour base, a fissile red chili paste and an oil tamper. This was designed to obliterate the entire intestine by the time it reached the rectum. The design was slightly modified later, just before testing, to lessen the impact on the native civilian population as it would have otherwise been detrimental to a ‘show of strength’ if no one could ever eat it. The first test was carried out in a controlled manner beside the river Godavari with large amounts of ‘ice water’ reserves (the river water flowing just a few feet away acting as a back up).

A news report on the first test conducted at an undisclosed location on the river bank of Godavari 50 KM from Rajamundry(1979):

“Within seconds after the ball of Gonkura touched the palate, a blood curdling yell was heard that shattered the windshields of busses moving peacefully across the Godavari bridge. This was followed, almost instantaneously, by the face turning bright red and water condensing at the eye level flowing down like the river Godavari. The fall-out lasted for days with the ensuing diarrhea refusing to respond to all known medication. The yell was so loud that it was recorded at a Kashmir radio station, listeners of which disregarded it as a particularly long and irritating static noise. Shammi Kapoor Who was holidaying there, was believed to have mobilized his men to look around for the prankster making fun of him.”

The news of this test shook everyone up. None more than the neighbouring state, which faced an imminent threat. Fearing insanity if the war continued any longer, the Tamil population conceded their defeat. A treaty was signed in 1980 to start making sweets instead. This unwittingly saved a million lives; probably more, if you included the ‘adventurous’ foreign tourists who might have wanted to get a taste of the local cuisine. Many recipes were exchanged by both sides during the signing of treaty as a goodwill gesture. By the early 80s as a result of the white flag, the three part composition used in Tsar Gonkura was successfully deployed for peaceful purposes; many new pickles were created and to great success.

In Andhra the experiments still continued. Avakkai was used instead of Gonkura to increase the sourness of the base; this was however channelized to constructive use with curd rice, delivering gastronomic kicks, going down with the cool curd rice. As a result of the pact, new research was initiated in making sweets like the complicated Pothereklu.

Over the years, many other chutneys, mixes, concoctions of various intensities have been reported across India. There are unsubstantiated claims of an Englishman running around like a colloidal particle after having a taste of the marathi “thecha” made from chili and garlic. Till date though, Tsar Gonkura remains the wildest and hottest concoction made by sane humans etching out a permanent place in the Indian folk lore.

~fin

Friday, October 31, 2014

The epic war of spices : Part 3, The rejoinder

Part three of most stories are mind numbingly boring. The chief selling point is the apparent progression of the story or the apparent introduction of plot changing characters. This blog doesn’t employ a PR agency to moderate mass messaging.  Hence the blow of boredom is not going to be cushioned..


By 1967,where this part takes off, the congress was all but uprooted from Tamil nadu. This, though irrelevant to this story, holds some significance to the readers of this blog who can leave this passage right now and read up briefly, on the fascinating history of the madras presidency and later the madras state. The links may really be interesting and you might end up forgetting that you were directed to those pages from here. So, I beseech you to be lazy to click on those links and to continue with the next paragraph.


Before getting started... what is a response to a rejoinder called? God only knows a? ok.
 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Madras welcomed guests with open arms and soon businesses were set up. There were a lot of people from Andhra, Kerala and some from Karnataka too.The Marwaris gheroed Sowcarpet. One wonders if Sowcarpet was two deg. cooler than the rest of Chennai(Chinnai is hot yaar). History is not very clear about this. 

In time, many Andhra messes crop up in lacalities with considerable Telugu poppulation serving up piping hot Andhra meals. The amount of rice served in these places per day, if stacked one behind the other at one rice thickness would… hmmm… ok this was really before the time of internet so placing an absurd comparison on this is beyond me…  let us say it  would cover 2-3(say) foot(d) ball fields or something. The essence of the statement though, is that large quantities of rice were served.But, this was not the novelty; the novelty of the place was finding more green chillies than vegetables in the various broths served by them and the Gunpowder, silently lurking just out of eyesight.

While this Andhra mess movement grew, offering a spicy alternative to the pretty bland local cuisine, the other messes like the ‘erode kurinji mess’ and the ‘namakal nayagan mess’ started losing its patrons. The cold war had fizzled out by now, but the slow weapon deployed by Srinivas was working with cold precision. It was hurting in a way not originally designed for; but, it was hurting.

The Dravidian movement was at its zenith and anything non Tamil was met with, err… Tamil. The Tamil mess uzhiyar sangam (TMUS) (Tamil mess employees union) approached the Chief Minister with a petition banning Andhra messes from Tamil Nadu. “Andhra is also north Indian, anything north of Chennai is north India” reasoned a visibly tempestuous Sathiyamoorthy. 

The CM heard the petition out and is said to have remarked "andhra mess a? ithu enna vengayam" (what Andhra mess?? onions!!)

One more note: Though it is puzzling, this random reference to onions; it is a popular phrase first used by one of the then CM’s mentor ‘Periyar’. Used with the right intonation and swagger it can be remarkably dismissive of the topic in discussion.

The CM’s aide though, one Mr Chokkalingam, was a shrewd fellow. He understood that there were already too many protests to organize, quell and ghost direct. This issue cannot become another one of those. He walked home that day, contemplating his move against this new problem at hand.

“What do I do? What do I do?”

Onions!! the CM’s voice played in his head.


“Hehe… onions…Wait... onions… Why not?” He got up. Sambar shall be fought with sambar, kootu with kootu, poriyal with poriyal (various constituents of a Tamil cuisine). He recalled his wife Meenakshi’s first attempt at cooking. It had been a disaster. What had started out to be an edible broth had turned out so spicy that he had playfully named it "Kara Kozhambu" (through running nose and tears). That ‘kara kozhambu’ had onions which were small islands of solace in the swelttering sea  of orange. It was wild. but like some wild things, delightfully so, and with a potential to take on the formidable foe.

Mr. Choks slyly introduced a tempered version of Meenakshi’s recipe at strategic hangout spots. The Kara Kozhambu, a devilish concoction of spices magically burned tongues while putting a smile on the crying faces. The play of various emotions on the face was an added bonus for the cook to watch. 

Strangely, this was followed by a lot of culinary experimentation on both sides. A lot of cuisines were ‘Indianised’. Slowly gobi machurian, originally from a place near Gobi (not gobichettypalayam), chicken 65, maggi noodles, etc. were included as a part of the 'cuisine'. A period of happiness and contentment followed.


But… things change... part 4...

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

The epic war of spices : Part 2, The rebuttal

The Head of bio warfare, Capsaicin division, Andhra - one Mr R.T. Srinivas was given the task of answering back to the Tamil taunt. This Srinivas was a man of considerable fortitude. He was lean, healthy and well fed. (What Varadhachari would have called a ‘chamathu kutti’ which translates to ‘smart small’, which actually implies a smart boy). He also had a keen taste for fashion and many believed that in this regard, he was way ahead of his time. He would carry off pink and yellow with such grace and masculinity that the womenfolk stayed away from those colours for the next few days.

He also spoke many languages.  He spoke English too.  

“What re? their sambar is spicy?”

“Yes saar” his understudy replied.

“I like this sweet flavour of bisibelabath, why spoil it in the name of war ra?”

“Dunno saar”

“Our boss is going mad over this issue... let us see… lunch chesara?” (had lunch?)

“Yes saar”

“What?”

“Curd rice with mango pickle.”

“Oh... I love that, sweet and sour... they are very tasty.”

“Yes saar”

He absentmindedly blew at his hair from his lower lips, a mannerism that he had picked up from the movies. His hair fluttered coyly in response.
A few more seconds passed. The clock on the wall ticked away.

Exhaling deeply, he got up. “I’m going to eat now, let me think about it while I eat…”

“Ok saar”

“Please finish the report the PM asked for. ‘Open drains as a prospective weapon of self-destruction’ or something no? That one…”

“Yes saar, Saar but that is not even in our scope saar”

“em cheyyali babu… they are saying garden drainage toilet drainage something and all, all smell the same no? what is difference…”

“ok saar”

“like this only is life, plus order is from the centre,nothing can be done ”

“Ok saar”

“sarra babu, nenu vellostanu”(I’ll be back)

“Ok saar”. 

So, while our Srinivas takes his lunch, he encounters ‘Curd chilli’ (a direct translation furnished for the benefit of the English speaking population). The Side dish, as they were called (not the ones we wrongly refer to now; stuff like pickle, chicken 65 or roasted peanuts), for curd rice, covered a variety of edible delights. The salted pickles, the raw onions, the chutneys, and for the adventurous ones, raw green chillies. The Curd chilli, being munched by Srinivas presently, is chilli emasculated by drying it in the sun after dunking it curd and salt. It is found in both Tamil and Andhra cuisines.

Srinivas gets his ‘eureka’ moment as he licks the last of his fingers and reaches for the glass of water. He leans back allowing the moment to pass, letting the bile settle down. He stares at nothingness for a while and nods off to sleep.

A Chilli Cries for help as it is slowly pulled into the quagmire of sour curd. The cries become more and more strident as it nears its death. Finally, there is nothing but deathly silence.

A lone tear streaks across Srinivas’ face. He wakes up, “I shall never have this again, I shall become a vegetarian like Gandhi. "Wait what? no...“. In his confusion, He is suddenly struck with a bright idea.

Note: Had this been a story written by a fellow who had an inclination to stitch in historic events for drama, Srinivas, at this juncture would have run on the streets naked, shouting “devudaaaaa”. But no. People of Andhra look down upon such things and running naked is a strict no no.

“Reddy garu, I have a plan.” Srinivas gasped. He paused for a bit, panting at the door way, having ‘fast-walked’ across the lawn. Reddy garu or A.V. Raghava Reddy was Srinivas's reporting officer.

“What?”

“Sir(not saar, because srini is posh), if we slowly increase the spiciness in our food, uniformly, in small quantities, such that even our people don’t realize the difference, over time, the Sambar, the weapon of the Tamils would be part of our regular stock. In a few years, we can surely render their 'sambar sadham' impotent.”

“Hmmm…” Reddy removed his spectacles with his pudgy fingers and wiped them. He was a stout man. When he leaned back, the chairs creaked. The biggest research in the weapons division was on the durability of A.V. Raghava Reddy’s chair. If they could only isolate the element that kept the chair together, they could design bomb proof tanks, tank proof vehicles and dent proof bumpers and so on. In fact, the many nips on the chair falsely attributed to the mice in the office were actually the samples that had been removed surreptitiously for testing.

Putting them glasses back on, AVRR exhaled, “but, Srinu we need to respond spectacularly. They will think we are sissies otherwise”

“Sir, you are right, it does seem too slow a process, but we have to take a lot of factors into consideration. Primarily, our finances. The "unscientific" bifurcation has left Andhra poorer. It would be a huge setback if we were to waste funds on a weapon that would be ousted easily by the Tamils two years down the line.”

“I can see your point Srinu... It is also true that you are a 'deergadarsi' like lord Krishna. I always like that about you... But in this case... "

“Sir, if I may add, Madras is going through a tumultuous period with Rajaji facing opposition from lot of quarters. If we can ever do something like this, it is now.”

“You have started advising me now”

“Saar no saar(the crowd pleasing version of sir)… your experience is my age, what saar, you are telling like this… just telling my view”

“Hmmm… let me see”

“Also, sir, to speed up the process of “heat calibration” we can use this mixture I have manufactured in our lab, I was just reviewing the results of its testing last week. It is a highly potent weapon for air attacks leaving the opposition sneezing and watering through their eyes. It incapacitates the opposition for up to four hours. But frankly Sir, I really don’t see it being deployed in the near future. I thought we could use the composition for this programme, with your permission.”

“For ingestion?”

“Yes…”

“Oh!”

“Yes… it does not taste that bad actually.”

“what? You have tasted it?”

“Accidently”

“what is it? safety is as simple as ABC or something right? always be careful or something… what happened to all that nonsense?“

“saaaar”

“Hmm... Ok ok I will see… but this is a nice addition now”.

“Yes, sir kandi podi”

“Thank you Srinivas, now you may leave”

“Thank you sir, it is also called GUN POWDER”

And thus began Operation Meals, Andhra Meals 


..... part 3